My Blanken World

My world of boys, textiles and moving.

A tiny, tiny tutorial January 24, 2015

Filed under: Broken/Repaired,Home improvement,Random thoughts — blankenmom @ 11:52 pm
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Tonight I’m going to divert from my usual… (I hear a collective sigh of relief that it’s not about “that house” this week…  Well pthththt to you!)  But instead it’s a tiny, tiny tutorial on something I was working on recently and could NOT find a single tutorial on!  In this day and age, how could there NOT  be a tutorial on everything?

 

I digress…

 

Last week I was taking all the baseboard’s off through the whole first floor.  To my delight, and slight frustration, the original homeowner did an excellent job of putting this house together, which means taking it apart has been a challenge.  Each baseboard came off nicely, but the nails stayed in the walls.  Too close to the floor to use the hammers claw and too small of a head to use the crow bar or nail remover.  The nails weren’t nearly strong enough to get pounded all the way into the wall, and I don’t want to have to worry about them back there when I put the new baseboard’s on if I just bend them.  On a search I went all over the webs to find out how I was supposed to get the silly things out!

 

Nothing!

 

I found several showing how to get them out of the back of the baseboard’s, but not one on how to get them out of the wall?  I’m not sure if they just figured we all knew this, or that no one else has ever had this problem?

 

My search did reveal one thing… I needed a new tool.  Nippers to be exact.  (The twelve-year-old boy in me giggles every time.)

 

nippers

 

 

So off to the local store I went!  I had every intention of using these to just “nip” off the end of the nail, and leave the remaining nail behind in the wall.  Can I just tell you here that nails are really hard!  No seriously, those suckers weren’t going to give in!  However, in my attempt, I did figure out a much easier way of using them.  You know, the way they were intended!  *GASP*

 

So here’s my very tiny tutorial on how to get the nails that were left behind, out.

Using a putty knife behind your nippers so that you don’t damage the wall (try it once without it and you’ll see what I mean) and holding the nail very firmly, roll the nippers up until the two handles meet.  It actually slips right out!

 

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No you don’t need the board at the bottom, that was just the baseboard that was laying there.

 

 

 

 

That’s it… seriously, no one could post that anywhere?

 

I feel better now.

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20 days fast January 10, 2014

 

Our church is doing a 21 day fast.  The fast is anything you feel you can’t live without.  If it’s your morning coffee – go without it.  If it’s having a drink – go without it.  If it’s sports – go without it.  If it’s shopping – go without it.  If it’s food, they suggested The Daniel Diet…. to which our family had a good laugh over when we discovered we’re essentially already on it.

Mine, mine is media.  I don’t know if you know this, but I’m a news junkie.  My daily routine starts off with news, continues with news and ends with news.  Websites, YouTube videos, talk radio, magazines…..  granted it can be a great teaching tool at times, but at a certain point it can become too much.  So – I can go without it.

I will admit however that the 21 days threw my bit of OCD off, so I’m going with 20 days…. yeah, I should probably have worked in an “anal retentive fast” also, but one thing at a time here.  So no FB, no news outlets, no websites, no talk radio and very limited t.v. only after the boy’s head to bed.  I’ll be catching up with the blogs I’m missing in a few more weeks.

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.How am I doing you ask?

Don’t…. it’s pretty sad and pathetic.

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However, on the bright side, I am getting quite a bit done.  I’m finally getting my sewing room put together and my dress started.

After watching the sales for several months and doing some major research, I managed to find an excellent deal on a new compound miter saw plus a stand – on sale (I love sales!).  Even after looking on Craigslist I couldn’t have found it cheaper, so I’m pretty pleased with myself!  Along with another new tool from several months ago to keep things looking clean when I put the tables together.  Granted the room won’t be done over night, but at least it’ll start to look like a sewing room again.

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And tonight while my dentist man is off at reserve duty, I managed to get the curtains down.  *cough, cough, cough*  They may have been up there since the Carter administration?  The curtains are washing as I type and hopefully, not shrinking.  Wait…. is that a light switch?  I didn’t know that was there!

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At this point, I have no idea what’s going on in the world around me, but I know there is a giant pot of Chili cooking, curtains washing, wood cut, dogs walked and three boys that have had their mom’s undivided attention for the last week, so maybe the outside world can wait two more weeks after all?

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Designing my way out October 31, 2013

Filed under: Family,Home improvement,Hubby,Pets,Sewing — blankenmom @ 1:20 am
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You can only see part of the chaos in this room thank goodness!

 

 

Since I’ve been in such a funk lately, I have completely avoided neglected my sewing room for other projects around the house.  (You should see the work I’ve done on the pear trees we’re planting!)  Poor sewing – it always get’s the brunt of my moods.  But now the first-born is visiting with a project he needs sewn and a friend of his needs a snap put back on, so getting the sewing room at least partially set up is no longer an option.

 

So tonight I put it together with the bare minimum for when he get’s here for those projects.  But what about after he leaves?

 

Since I’m not exactly in the sewing mood, I’ve decided instead to get creative in another way… and get some of my frustrations out at the same time, by building my new sewing room; well, sort of.  I plan on building all new shelves, tables and cutting table (since mine is out cold from the move.)  And since we’re a bit tight on the budget after buying the house, I plan on using pallets.  I have a strange fascination with them?  Normally my dentist man would object, but since it’s relegated to my sewing room, he’ll just be happy I’m not spending any money and keeping busy.

 

Ok, I actually bought a new tool for the project.  Ssshhhh….

 

 

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The main idea for my sewing room will be all standing or resting on a high stool.  My posture is getting very poor from sitting at the machine all the time.  Getting up constantly from sewing to press or cut was getting annoying and let’s be honest here…. sitting all the time is contorting my butt into a funny shape – not cool.

After a google search, I’m not the only person who does this.  So I’m only half-crazy.

Another thought, it needs to be easy to clean under when I vacuum.  The room is carpeted again, at least for now, which makes wheels on a chair tough to use and I’ll still have to vacuum instead of sweep.  Big bulky furniture is hard to clean around and once you move, leaves large spots on the floor from where you’ve been walking and not walking.  So having as little of a “footprint” from furniture as possible, makes for easier cleaning.

Since the sewing room is right next to the boys’ bedroom, I’ve had numerous complaints requests to sound proof the room a bit.  Seems my sewing machines tend to be a bit noisy?  Sheesh – I love the sound of a sewing machine humming, you’d think they would too?  I guess trying to sleep at 3 am with a serger battering next to your head doesn’t work very well?  Go figure!  So I’ll be attempting to sound-proof the room a bit on the adjoining wall and keep the machines on the opposite wall.  I wonder if that will work to keep little boy noises out of my sewing room?

My last thought was maximum storage without clutter.  Clutter drives me batty and my sewing room is the only place I can control it.  The rest of the house has monkey’s flying about, so I have to just learn to live with it.  My sewing room is under my control.   Bwahaha.. oh um, yeah.

 

This room is really a great one for business purposes if I choose to re-up here.  It’s got a door to the outside and a driveway right outside of it.  It’s got a door to the house, so when we do get dogs again, I won’t have to try to keep them out and I won’t have people walking in on a fitting by accident *awkward*.

 

Here is the design inspiration for the furniture ~

 

 

table

 

 

~ suggestions?

 

So for the next few weeks, or months (depending on how crazy things get around here), this will be my project.  I’ll keep you updated on the progress – good or bad – and hopefully by the time I’m done, I’ll have my sewing inspiration back!

 

 

 

Happy Trails – sewing on the go September 23, 2013

 

 

Since I’m sitting here bored, without any of my belongings, I figured I should probably do a quick “tutorial” on sewing while traveling. 

 

Why?

 

Because if I had taken my own advice, I’d at least have a bit of sewing with me – or even my machine and I wouldn’t be watching a Star Trek marathon (the original to Voyager)…. again.  

 

Ok, I probably would be, but with my sewing machine wirrrrring next to my laptop as it played.

 

 

First – is it actually possible to take your sewing with you?

 

Of course!  For just hand sewing, there are so many different types of sewing baskets available, you could be stylish AND have something to do.

You could have vintage to traditional to just your style.

 

 

 

antique

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Even a tackle box would work if you’re not picky about what it looks like.

 

Make sure you’ve got everything you think you might need.  But usually you can find it in a smaller scale.  You probably won’t be cutting out any dresses on your hotel room floor, so large scissors probably won’t be necessary.  Do remember your thimble for hand sewing.  Unless you enjoy pain, or have no feeling left in your fingertips, you’ll want something for those hand needles.

 

 

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This is probably a bit more then you’ll actually need – but you get the idea.

 

For those of us who like to bring their sewing machine with them, for say… classes, moves, long vacations, a craft night at your friend’s house or sewing with the other parents for a school function – what ever your reason, there is a way to safely and conveniently move your sewing machine AND your serger if you have one.

Several companies make varying styles of bags, roller bags, totes and luggage to carry your not-so-little precious all over and back.  As always, it comes down to price and style.

Whether your going for the quick and easy Joann’s at 50% off or the “matchy-matchy” whole darn set.  There is a right one for you.

One of my personal favorites, due to the functionality and color choices is Tutto.  How can you go wrong with that many color choices after all!

 

Now that we have most of our tools and gadgets with us, let’s answer our second question.

 

Why would we want to sew while we’re traveling?

 

If sewing is only for when you absolutely have to – then you don’t really need much of these.  A mini-kit in your luggage will suffice for emergencies.  

If sewing is a passion, then a small sewing basket and your latest work to practice a little hand sewing, will do great.  After all, once you’ve seen one corn field on your move…. you’ve seen them all.  

If sewing is a little more of an addiction than say, crack – than you’ll want the luggage.  And as the ReFashionista shows us, there’s always time to whip-up a dress!

 

And for those of you, who are seriously, seriously addicted, there are, in fact, sewing, knitting and crocheting cruises and vacation destinations.  

 

Happy Trails!

 

 

 

 

1/4″ at a time March 23, 2013

Filed under: Sewing,Sewing lessons — blankenmom @ 9:11 pm
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Not so much a sewing lesson I guess, but sometimes getting to know a new tool that can save you time – thus money is nice too.

 

 

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This little tool is called a 1/4″ hem roller (you can actually buy them in different sizes I believe, but not by much).  You would use this for napkins, sheer fabric hems, some curtains.  Places you’d see both sides of the fabric so you want as little hem showing as possible or as light weight as possible.

 

You can do these hems by hand, but trust me, as someone who has done this by hand on yards-and-yards of a hem – get the foot!

 

You need to start out by doing a quick, very close to the edge straight stitch.  This keeps the fabric from stretching as you sew with the roller foot and give the fabric something to roll around so to speak.  You’ll want to leave the thread tails for something to hold onto to pull the fabric through in the beginning since it won’t want to feed by itself.  It’s also useful at the end so you can keep the fabric feeding through the foot and won’t pop out.

 

 

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Attach your nifty little foot, set the needle to just barely catch the fabric curl (it’s about a 3 on my machine) and feed the long threads you left through first.  If you just set it under there, it sort of self feeds itself into the foot.  Do make sure that the thread from the needle and bobbin are fed through the bar AFTER the curl or the fabric won’t go anywhere.  You’ll have a lot of thread coming out the back of the foot – it’s ok, you’ll cut it off when you’re done.  Set the foot down right before the fabric and start the fabric through.  You’ll want to start slightly before the fabric, but not much.  Pulling gently letting the fabric curl through the foot.

 

 

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You can see it curling itself here.

It works best for me to pull (very gently) with my left hand and guide with my right for this.  You’ll want to play around to find the “sweet spot” for guiding the fabric in that get’s the best roll.  It’s usually slightly to the left for me.  If it’s a long enough piece of fabric you can just hold your hand in one spot letting the fabric slide through.

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This is what will come out of the other side.

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Sorry for the bad photo.  Odd angle.

It ends up being very neat and clean if you do it right.  You may end up with a few spots where it didn’t tuck the fabric all the way up and you’re left with a slight raw edge.  You can go back through with small scissors and cut those spots off – being careful NOT to clip the folded edge of the sewn fabric.

This does take practice, but’s well worth the time and it’s well worth the $20 for the foot!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There’s a pattern here (cutting through) January 5, 2013

Filed under: Sewing,Sewing lessons — blankenmom @ 11:46 pm
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Great – you’ve got your pattern all cut out from the original paper!

 

Now you can lay your newly traced pattern down on the fabric OR use your actual tissue if you don’t want to trace.  You can follow the layout in the directions or you can lay them so that they fit tightly on the fabric.  I find that the layout directions tend to waste a lot of fabric and I don’t have that kind of money to waste.  But if you’re nervous on your first try – definitely use them, we want you comfortable!  You do however, need to follow the grain lines and these are shown to you by the arrows on the pattern.  The pattern pieces need to all be going in the same direction and all in the correct direction (unless otherwise noted).  Usually from top to bottom.  *There are some patterns that will have you going side-to-side or diagonal, but let’s not get ahead of ourselves here.  For the most part, you’ll be going in this standard direction.

 

 

Making sure the grain-line lines up with the edge.

Making sure the grain-line lines up with the edge.

 

 

Make sure the patterns are as flat as you can get them on the fabric.  You don’t want any wrinkles, crinkles or rolls under them or you’ll cut the pattern incorrectly.

 

 

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I would usually iron the fabric, but since these are pajama pants and the fabric is heavy enough to lay flat, I didn’t bother. It won’t affect the lay of the pattern in this case.

 

 

You’re now going to pin…. lot’s and lot’s of pin’s.  You want to pin parallel with your cutting lines, not against them and make a good attempt at making them straight (If your pins aren’t straight with each other, this will make your cutting less accurate because of the puckers it causes).  You’ll end up at some point in corners, you can choose which line you’ll go parallel with when you get there – not an issue!  Make sure to pin corners, curves and straight lines.  You’ll want to pin about 1-2 inches, so that when you cut and slightly lift the pattern and fabric up with the scissors, the fabric has a hard time moving and shifting.  Don’t pin over the little triangles on the cutting lines since you’ll need to clip those and cutting your pins is a bad thing!

 

 

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Start cutting!  It doesn’t really matter which lines you cut first, at least in my experience.  As you go, keep the fabric as flat as possible.  Don’t turn the fabric to cut it, but move your body around the fabric.  Each time you move the pieces, it changes how the fabric lies under the pattern, even with the pins in.  When you get to a triangle, make a very small, but noticeable cut in it.  It doesn’t have to be the triangle, just a snip will do.  If there are two or three, make two or three snips.

 

 

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Once you’re done cutting out each piece, you need to lay each piece to the side and move on to the next.  Make sure to keep the pattern on top of the piece of fabric you just cut out or you’ll forget which piece is what, especially with pieces like fronts and backs that look very similar.  If you don’t have enough pins to keep in the patterns AND to hold your fabric together later when sewing the other pieces, you can take all but one or two out – enough to keep the pattern attached.

 

Once the pieces are all cut out, you’ll need to go back and make the finishing marks.  Tailor tacks, washable or air dry markers or chalk are all perfect for this task.  Tailor tacks are free, washable or air dry markers and chalk all work very well – just make sure not to iron over them before they disappear and chalk works nicely if you remember to wash or dust off before ironing.  (I still have a bit of blue chalk on one of my favorite dresses because I ironed before I dusted the chalk off.)

 

When using a tailor’s tack, use contrasting thread.  Make a small loop in the fabric on the mark you need to show.  I tend to use tacks.  These can be cut out later once you’ve sewn everything together to your satisfaction.

 

When using markers or chalk, use the closest color to the fabric as possible that will still show up.  Markers will not work on darker fabrics however, which makes chalk a nice choice for them.  I have been known to use a matching color of marker on dark shades and just looked for the contrasting shade in the light.  Tailor’s will often use white chalk on dark colors and I will do this if I must, but I prefer to avoid it since the chalk can travel a bit.  Make sure if you’re using these that you mark the inside of your fabric!

 

 

Going left to right: Chalk "pen", tracing wheel and chalk paper, sharpie (only in the hem allowances!!), tailors chalk, tailors tacks.  I don't have any disappearing ink pens, but don't let that stop you from getting them!

Going left to right: Chalk “pen”, tracing wheel and chalk paper, sharpie (only in the hem allowances!!), tailors chalk, tailors tacks. I don’t have any disappearing ink pens, but don’t let that stop you from getting them!

 

*I will go over how to use these in more detail later on.

 

With all of these marks, make sure to get both sides of your fabric pieces.  Get boxes, dots, and fold marks, marked.

 

Now that you are done cutting and marking all your patterns, you can start to pin them together according to the pattern and sewing them together.

 

Sew many projects June 9, 2012

Filed under: Sewing,Sewing lessons — blankenmom @ 6:01 pm
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You’ve sewn your paper, your spare fabric and maybe even your fingers and you’re still thinking you want to try this whole sewing thing.  Well that’s good, because you’ve already invested a good amount of time in it already, so marching on is a great idea!

 

But what should your first project be?

 

I usually tell my student’s to start with something simple.  If they’re more into crafting, a pet bed or curtains.  If they’re more into fashion an “A-line” skirt, no zipper (elastic waist).  If they have children, a blanket or very easy top/dress.  Easy enough projects, but without a pattern on your first try, not much progress is going to be made unless you’re one of those genius freaks, but then you wouldn’t be reading this!

 

There are A LOT of pattern companies.  I don’t even know most of them, but I can give you a heads up on the most popular ones and a few of the lesser known ones.  From there, you can go and explore their sites and start drooling over projects.  I can help you with a lot of things, but picking out your sewing pattern isn’t one of them.  I’ll point you in the right direction, but from there it’s all personal!

 

When you’re looking at their sites, you can usually look at the front and back of the patterns.  This will give you all the information you’re going to need before you even get to the fabric store.

I want to make an important note for when you’re looking at patterns – don’t look at what’s on the cover and judge by color or the pattern on the fabric.  That’s the perk to sewing.  You get to pick the color and/or pattern (or lack-there-of) on the fabric!  My boys do this.  They’ll see a pattern I have and say they don’t like it, until I show them the fabric I was thinking of and then they start to like it.  This also goes for length and width for the most part.  If you see a pattern you’ve fallen in love with but something bothers you about it, you can change it!  With practice, you’ll be able to take a few inches off or add on, a few inches in or out, change a collar, pockets, sleeves or change buttons to a zipper (or visa versa). 

I’d also like to say – you are NOT going to be the same size as your RTW (ready-to-wear… aka: store-bought clothing.), you WILL be a bigger size in patterns.  Get over it!  No on will know – there’s no tag!  I am about 4-6 sizes larger in patterns, I’m fine with that.  (If it makes you feel better – sew in a tag that says a smaller size.)

 

Here is how to take your measurements before you head off the to the store –

 

 

(From calicofabric.com)

 

 

Popular patterns in the US:

  • Simplicity – Very easy patterns, youthful, very popular.
  • Butterick – Easy patterns, classic clothing, very popular.
  • McCall’s – Easy patterns, stylish clothing, very popular.
  • Vogue – More difficult patterns, very nice clothing, very popular.
  • Burda – Easy to difficult (your choice), trendy, very popular.
  • Jalie – More for athletes, sports or “undies”, more difficult because of the fabrics.
  • Green Pepper – Very easy, not as well-known.
  • Folkwear – More vintage wear, great for costumes.
  • Kwik-Sew – Easy patterns, great for lingerie, very popular.
  • Marfy – Easy patterns, nice designs, becoming well-known.
  • Ottobre – More for children (I believe it’s German?), very cute.
  • Onion – Easy to sew, lesser known company.
  • Amy Butler – She also has her own line of fabrics, very popular, very cute stuff.

 

(Here is a whole list of several more – most I’ve never heard of, but DON’T let that stop you from checking them out and loving them!)

 

 

Most patterns will include a hem allowance, which is usually 3/4″.  They will tell you on the pattern if they’ve included this or not, or if they’ve changed the amount.  It doesn’t make it any harder to use, it just adds an extra step to your cutting.  Not an issue! 

Some companies include ALL sizes, not just a range.  Which is nice if you’ve been elected to sew your entire flag teams new uniforms.  You don’t have to buy 2-3 sets of patterns to make them all!

 

Simplicity is just like it says, simple.  So this may be the one you want to start out with – as opposed to Vogue, which tends to add extra pieces or in one such case I’ve come across, only included French directions…. I don’t know French?  (They do have a great feature that tells you which patterns should look best on your body shape however.)  And Burda on occasion omits the seam allowances and that may be burdensome for your first time out.

 

All but a few come with picture directions, which is great for people like me who are visual, and for people who are just starting out and need to see what-the-heck the designer is talking about!  An even smaller amount don’t include any directions, just the patterns.  (When patterns first started, it was just the directions and measurements!)

 

*Money saving tip here*

Joanns craft/fabric store will have pattern sales every so often.  Either 5 for $5 (limit 10), 10 for $10 for Simplicity, Butterick or McCall’s or $1.99 – $3.99 for Butterick, McCall’s or Vogue – a great time to stock up!!  When this happens, go to the pattern companies website, pick out the patterns you want and then head down to the store.  Make sure to write out your list with at least 5 extra wants on there because a few on your list may not be there any longer.

 

Once you’ve picked out your pattern, you have to decipher the “coding” on the back.  I promise they’re not trying to keep anything secret, once you understand what they’re trying to tell you, it’s all good things!

 

Over the next few weeks, we’re going to cover pattern instructions – today we’ll just go over the back cover, so you can actually walk out of the fabric store with your fabric and notions in hand.

 
(Patterns are copyrighted, so I’ll be taking my best care to make sure I protect that while attempting to show you the information you need.)

 

 

 

Pick out the pattern envelope that has the most correct measurements. If you fall all over the place, go with your largest measurement since it’s easier to take in a pattern, than enlarge it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 *It will tell you on the front cover what size you are buying.

 

 

Let’s take the top section – It gives you the description of each of the items that can be sewn from the pattern you’ve chosen.  While it doesn’t mean you *have* to sew it exactly as it’s stated, it’s what the patterns included will give you.  They are in letter order on the cover, instructions and pattern pieces to help you identify what you are working with.  Pieces can be used for more than one item and include several sizes. 

 

Fabric suggestions section – Most pattern companies will give you suggestions as to which fabrics will work best with the pattern you’ve picked.  While you can pick any fabric you want, sticking with their suggestions, especially in the beginning, will make your life much easier.  If you don’t use the right fabric for the item you’re making, it may not sit, drape, fold, turn or tuck correctly.  There are often ways around this however. 

If you don’t know what these fabrics are and want to stick with the suggestions exactly, you can either look up the suggested fabric on-line or one of the employee’s at the fabric store will help steer you in the right direction.

 

Size section – just let’s you know what size categories you can get in the envelope.

 

Yardage section – tells you how much fabric you’ll need for each item you want to sew and for the size you plan on sewing. 

Fabrics come in varying widths, usually 45″ – 60″ (90″ – 150″ also).  If you were to actually measure the widths, they don’t actually fall exactly on these measurements, but this is a universal measurement everyone goes by.

 

 

 

The top of the bolts of fabric will tell you all the info you need. How many yards it originally had. What it’s made of. How to wash it. How many inches it is. Where it was made and how much it costs. Sometimes it will have how many yards are left.

 

 

 

If you’re making dress “D” in size 14 with 45″ fabric, you’ll need 2 and 7/8 of a yard (that’s 2 yards and 7/8 of a yard).  If you are making dress “A” in size 20 with 60″ fabric, you’ll need 2 1/2 yards.

The stars next two the bolt yardages are with or without nap.  Nap is like when you vacuum a carpet.  You go one way and you can see where you’ve vacuumed and you go another way and it looks different.  Fabric can do that too, not all, but a lot of fabrics.  If you place the pattern pieces going in different directions, it will be noticeable. 

 

 

You’ll notice that the fabric looks two different colors. This is the same fabric, going in two different directions. While it can be an interesting effect – this wasn’t my plan and can be very embarrassing on a pair of pants!

 

 

The interfacing they talk about is a fabric like fiber that comes in varying weights and colors.  You place it behind your fashion fabric to stiffen and stabilize it to make sure it doesn’t shift, stretch or misbehave.  It comes in sew in and iron on.  Your pattern will tell you which one you will need.

 

 

These will come on bolts or in packaging – bolts are more economical. If you can’t find them in the store, ask where they’re at – they’re usually near the cutting counter anyway.  The tops of the bolts will tell you weight, and whether or not they are iron on (fusible) or sew in style.

 

 

The notions section – tells you if you need to buy elastic, zippers, buttons, hook & eye’s,  how much and what size.  It will give you this information for each piece that needs it, by lettering again.  In this case – only “A” needed these notions.  It will also remind you to buy matching thread.

 

Finished garment section – tells you how the garment will fit (unless it’s not to be worn, such as a pillow or curtains, then it will either describe how it hangs or won’t have this description).  When you are wearing an item, there is a certain amount of “ease” – how much room is left over between you and the clothing.  You want this so not everything is skin-tight (or huge) – unless you like that?  Stretch pants you want 0″ ease and a nice, comfy blouse you’ll want several inches of ease.  It also tells you how long it will end up.

For top “B” size 6, your keester (hip) measurement is 32 1/2″ or so and the finished measurement around that area will be 55 1/2″.  That leaves an extra 23″ to move freely in.  (That’s just a few inches from hip to shirt, after you distribute it all the way around your body) This is good to know if you plan on making pants and the bottom finished measurements are more boot cut than you’d like or if a dress bottom is a bit smaller than you’d be able to walk in. 

This is also good to know length wise if you’re going to walk up the front of your dress if it’s too long – that could be embarrassing!

 

Front/back drawing section – a drawn description of what you’ve chosen, front and back.  You never know when there will be a detail hidden in the back that you weren’t prepared for!  (Nothing like a big, hideous bow on your butt to throw a beautiful dress off!)

 

 

Well few!  That comes off much quicker in person – but I think I covered it all?  If I’ve left you wondering about something, please let me know and I’ll be glad to fill you in on it. 

 

 

Now go forth and shop!